Two Visits to Guatapé: From My First Colombia Trip to Returning With My Wife

My first visit to Guatapé happened during my very first trip to Colombia.

At the time, everything about the country felt new and exciting. I had planned a two-week journey that started in Medellín, where I spent my first seven days staying in El Poblado. From there I flew to Cartagena for three days, then returned to Medellín for another week—this time staying in Laureles.

It was during that second week in Medellín that I finally took one of the most popular excursions in the region: the day trip to Guatapé and the famous rock known as El Peñol Rock.

At that point in my travels, I had heard about the rock, seen photos of the colorful town, and knew it was one of the top day trips from Medellín. But like many first-time visitors, I decided to do it the easy way—by joining a tour bus.

Looking back now, I’m glad I did it that way the first time. It gave me a great introduction to the area. But returning years later with my wife and exploring on our own turned out to be an entirely different experience.

And honestly, that second trip made me appreciate Guatapé even more.

My First Visit to Guatapé

The first time I visited Guatapé, it was part of an organized tour leaving Medellín early in the morning.

Tour buses typically depart from several locations around the city, and before long we were heading east out of Medellín into the lush green mountains of the Antioquia region.

The drive itself was beautiful. As the city faded behind us, the landscape opened up into rolling hills, farmland, and winding roads through the countryside.

Eventually we began seeing glimpses of water between the hills. That’s when you know you’re getting close to the massive Guatapé Reservoir.

Then suddenly, the rock appears.

And it’s impossible to miss.

Rising straight up from the earth like something from another planet is El Peñol Rock, a giant granite monolith that towers more than 700 feet above the surrounding landscape.

Even after seeing photos beforehand, I remember thinking the same thing most visitors do when they first see it in person:

That thing is enormous.

Climbing the Famous Rock

One of the highlights of visiting Guatapé is climbing the famous staircase carved into the side of the rock.

To reach the top of La Piedra del Peñol, visitors must climb approximately 740 steps.

The staircase zigzags upward through a natural crack in the rock, creating a dramatic climb between two massive stone walls.

At first the steps are easy.

Then somewhere around the halfway point, you start to feel them.

But there are plenty of resting spots along the way, and the views keep getting better the higher you go.

By the time I reached the top, the reward was obvious.

From the summit, you can see an incredible panoramic view of the Guatapé reservoir—a sprawling maze of emerald water filled with islands and peninsulas stretching in every direction.

It’s easily one of the most spectacular views in Colombia.

After spending some time at the top taking photos and catching my breath, we made our way back down and continued the tour.

Exploring the Colorful Town

After visiting the rock, our tour continued into the town of Guatapé itself.

And this is where the place really shows its personality.

Guatapé is widely known as one of the most colorful towns in Colombia.

Nearly every building is painted in bright colors—blue, yellow, red, green, and purple.

But what makes the town truly unique are the decorative panels called zócalos that appear along the lower portion of many buildings.

These panels are small works of art that often depict scenes of local life—farmers, animals, flowers, fishing, and cultural traditions.

Walking through the streets feels like strolling through an outdoor art gallery.

During that first trip, our tour gave us a couple of hours to explore the town center, grab lunch, and take photos around the main square.

It was enough to get a good feel for the town—but not enough time to really relax and enjoy it.

That would come later.

Returning to Guatapé With My Wife

The second time I visited Guatapé was years later, and the experience was completely different.

This time I was traveling with my wife, and we were staying in Rionegro, a city located near José María Córdova International Airport.

Instead of taking a tour bus, we decided to do something much simpler.

We ordered an Uber.

The ride from Rionegro to Guatapé took about an hour and a half, winding through beautiful countryside along the way.

My wife speaks Spanish fluently, so during the ride she struck up a conversation with the driver.

By the time we were halfway there, she had convinced him to stop for lunch and wait for us before continuing the trip.

That’s one of the great advantages of traveling independently in Colombia—things can be flexible.

I believe the ride cost around $34 USD, though it was charged to my card so I don’t remember the exact amount in pesos.

Either way, it turned out to be a great deal for the convenience.

Arriving in Guatapé on Our Own

Unlike the first trip where everything was structured around a tour schedule, this time we arrived with no real plan.

The driver dropped us off near a hotel, and we simply started exploring.

That freedom made a big difference.

Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we could take our time wandering through the streets, stopping wherever something caught our attention.

Later that evening we walked into the town center for dinner.

At night, Guatapé has a completely different atmosphere than during the daytime tourist rush.

The streets become quieter, locals gather in the plaza, and restaurants fill with people enjoying the evening.

It felt much more relaxed and authentic compared to the busy daytime tour crowds.

The Comfama Park Experience

During this second trip we also visited Parque Comfama Guatapé.

If you’ve never heard of it, Comfama parks are recreation areas in Colombia that offer pools, walking trails, nature areas, and family activities.

The park near Guatapé sits beside the lake and offers beautiful views of the surrounding landscape.

It was a great place to slow down, walk around, and enjoy the scenery without feeling rushed.

For travelers who want something a little different from the typical tourist stops, it’s definitely worth visiting.

Seeing the Rock Again

Of course, no visit to Guatapé would be complete without spending time around the famous rock.

The second time around we took things much slower.

Instead of rushing up the steps with a tour group, we spent time exploring the area around the base of the rock first.

There are restaurants, shops, and scenic viewpoints all around the area, making it easy to spend several hours there.

Eventually we made our way back up this time in a helicopter.

And even though I had already done the climb before, the view from the top was just as impressive the second time.

Maybe even more so.

Sometimes when you return to a place with someone you care about, the experience feels completely different.

Staying Overnight in Guatapé

One of the best decisions we made on that second trip was staying overnight.

In fact, we stayed three days total, which gave us plenty of time to explore.

We stayed in two different hotels during our visit.

The first one was decent, but the second one was really nice—and it had something special.

A view of the rock.

Waking up in the morning and seeing El Peñol Rock rising above the landscape from our hotel window was a pretty memorable experience.

Once I confirm the name of that hotel, I’ll definitely recommend it here because the view alone made the stay worthwhile.

Why Guatapé Is Worth Visiting More Than Once

After visiting Guatapé twice, I can say this:

It’s one of those destinations that can be experienced in very different ways.

A tour bus day trip is a great introduction and perfect for first-time visitors to Medellín.

But staying overnight or visiting independently gives you a chance to really appreciate the town.

You can slow down, explore the colorful streets without crowds, enjoy dinner in the evening, and spend more time around the lake and the rock.

That second experience made me realize there’s much more to Guatapé than just climbing the famous 740 steps.

Final Thoughts

Colombia is full of incredible destinations, but Guatapé remains one of the most visually unique places in the country.

Between the colorful architecture, the stunning reservoir landscape, and the towering presence of El Peñol Rock, it’s easy to see why this small town has become one of the most popular destinations in the region.

For me, visiting twice made the experience even better.

The first trip showed me why people love the place.

The second trip allowed me to experience it in a much more relaxed and personal way.

And if you’re visiting Medellín, whether for the first time or the tenth, Guatapé is absolutely worth the trip.